How To Winterize A Volvo Penta 4.3
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Winterizing my Boat - 4.3 GL volvo penta? | Register | FAQ | Sponsor Forums | Calendar |
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| #1 | |||
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| I desire to do this myself rather than pay 400.00 for someone else to practise it. I have researched the process and watched a few youtube videos. It doesnt look difficult to practise. Fog carb, fill gas tank and put fuel stablizer in tank, remove 4 plugs from block to drain h2o, remove hoses to bleed water, tilt leg downwards to drain water....done. Did I miss anything? Do yous guys do anything more to the lower leg...to drain h2o. Any info would exist appreciated...thx guys. |
09-09-2014, 01:23 PM 
Winterizing my Boat - 4.3 GL volvo penta? 
| #2 | |||
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| But make sure your lower leg doesn't take water in it with the oil. |
| #3 | |||
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| How practise you ck for that? Is there a spiral plug that can exist removed so that you tin encounter if the oil has water? I'm guessing there is and that you have to loosen information technology and watch for water as the oil flows out. And if there is no water, just tighten the screw plug....correct? |
| #4 | |||
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| Lower leg volition have a fill and bleed spiral. I e'er bleed and refill with fresh lube while winterizing. or you can undo the lower screw (drain) with the upper screw (fill up) airtight to run into if yous have water mixing with the oil. Depending on your engine yous may also accept drains in the block and manifolds. I leave mine open after filling with RV antifreeze. Bounce sheets in the engine compartment keeps the critters out. |
| #v | |||
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| The lower pigsty is the drain & too the fill when refilling with oil. When refilling pump oil in lower hole with upper plug removed, oil comes out upper pigsty when filled to proper level. |
| #vi | ||||
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| Volvo Pentas and Mercs for that matter accept a nasty addiction of splitting due to the h2o in the sand that you tin can never get out, picked up when you get close to the beach and draw sand in through the impeller. I ever brand sure I leave a adept corporeality of antifreeze in the system later draining the h2o, and air drying in a heated garage with all hoses off for two weeks. __________________ Originally Posted past Twisted Canuck |
| #7 | |||
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| OP: good chore on the research. I change all my oils and plugs every twelvemonth regardless. Permit oil and engine oil that is. I'll check my aft just information technology's usually fine. Add one more step to what you've mentioned: pour rv antifreeze into the prop itself and record it up to keep moisture out. YouTube leg oil and engine oil change. It's a breeze and your on your way |
| #8 | ||||
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| My boat is way to big an investment to take a chance doing something wrong. Find a expert place and pay the money. Just picked mine up, 280 bucks and i know it'southward done professionally. |
| #9 | |||
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| I owned the exact same engine/drive combo for several years. The only boosted process I did was reinstall all the plugs and go on to fill the engine and unit with RV antifreeze. It was worth a few extra dollars for the peace of mind knowing all the h2o was forced out of the arrangement. |
| #10 | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by nast70 My boat is way to big an investment to take chances doing something incorrect. Observe a skillful place and pay the money. Just picked mine upwardly, 280 bucks and i know it's done professionally. Exercise yous hire a pro to drive information technology also |
| #11 | ||||
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| That would be a helm. I am resposible for everyone in my boat, so that would be me. So yes I am a pro. __________________ |
| #12 | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by nast70 My boat is way to big an investment to hazard doing something wrong. Observe a skillful identify and pay the money. Just picked mine up, 280 bucks and i know it's done professionally. If all a guy did was buy an $18 jug of rv antifreeze and a $14 pair of muffs it takes literally fifteen minutes... information technology'south pretty fool proof. Just to each his own. By paying the pros I believe they assume liability as well if the block cracks. |
| #thirteen | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by curt7mm How practice you ck for that? Is there a screw plug that can exist removed so that you tin see if the oil has water? I'grand guessing there is and that you accept to loosen it and watch for water as the oil flows out. And if in that location is no h2o, just tighten the screw plug....correct? Only change the leg oil, peace of mind, extra x minutes and 10 dollars. Plus the bottom plug should exist magnetized, so yous volition see if there are any metal shavings. Last edited by Bigdad013; 09-10-2014 at 09:34 AM. |
| #fourteen | ||||
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| My gunkhole as well has a live well. I bike the pump with a tube in a bottle of rv anti freeze, also dump some in the bilge and wheel the pump in that location too. __________________ |
| #15 | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted by nast70 My boat also has a alive well. I bicycle the pump with a tube in a bottle of rv anti freeze, also dump some in the bilge and cycle the pump there as well. Excellent advice there |
| #16 | |||
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| I have winterized before...here is what I did in the past... |
| #17 | |||
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| I use rv antifreeze likewise I run it through earlier pulling whatever plugs. And then pull the plugs and go out them out. Yous volition accept a plug on the end of each exhaust manifolds. And a plug below the starter and i on the opposite side in same location and one plug in the top of the block by your alternator subclass its larger than the residuum. It'southward the aforementioned size as your gunkhole plug. These are all you h2o jackets in that location should exist iv pocket-sized and ane large. Drain your tranny fluid and so store it over winter let the filings drop out and if not milky put back in beginning of next flavour. Hope this helps good luck |
| #xviii | |||
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| Quote: Originally Posted past jabryan Drain your tranny fluid and then store it over winter let the filings drop out and if not milky put back in beginning of next flavor. Promise this helps expert luck Why would you put the oil back in? |
| #nineteen | |||
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| Well, the boat is winterized and nearly fix to be put away. The final thing I tried was to check the oil in the leg for wet. At that place is a large flathead scew at the lesser of the leg, simply I could not become it to loosen off. I sprayed some wd-40 on it and still couldnt get it to dorsum off. I certain dont want to strip it. Any suggestions? |
| #20 | ||||
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| Quote: Originally Posted past curt7mm Well, the boat is winterized and most set to be put abroad. The final thing I tried was to check the oil in the leg for moisture. There is a large flathead scew at the lesser of the leg, but I could not get it to loosen off. I sprayed some wd-xl on information technology and still couldnt get it to back off. I sure dont want to strip it. Whatsoever suggestions? Use the verbal aforementioned size screwdriver to take it off. It will come __________________ Originally Posted past Twisted Canuck |
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